06 May 2021
I'm meant to be taking a little break from this project, but in my Victoria Square researches after my last walk I noticed a curiosity I wanted to investigate. The community layer on Know Your Place has a single photograph captioned, "The remains of an 'underpass' in Victoria Square".
Looking back through the maps, I could see that there really did used to be an underpass across what used to be Birdcage Walk. I can only guess that it was there to join the two halves of the square's private garden that used to be separated by tall railings that were taken away during WWII. Maybe it was a landscaping curiosity, maybe it was just to save them having to un-lock and re-lock two gates and risk mixing with the hoi polloi on the public path in the middle...
Anyway. Intrigued, I popped up to Clifton Village this lunchtime for a post-voting coffee, and on the way examined the remains of the underpass—still there, but only if you know what you're looking for, I'd say—and also visited a tiny little road with a cottage and a townhouse I'd never seen before, just off Clifton Hill, and got distracted by wandering the little garden with the war memorial in St Andrew's churchyard just because the gate happened to be open.
EDIT: Aha! Found this snippet when I was researching something completely different, of course. From the ever-helpful CHIS website:
When there were railings all round the garden and down the central path, in order that the children could play together in either garden there was a tunnel for them to go through. This was filled in during the 1970s but almost at the south east end of the path if one looks over the low wall the top of the arches can still be seen.
At some point, the local polling station stopped being at Holy Trinity and moved here.
Speaking of elections, one of the four elections happening today is the Bristol mayoral election; current enumbent Marvin Rees, an Evangelical of some variety, met church leaders here on the first day of his first term: “We prayed, and we invited the spirit of God into the city."
And opposite Prospect Cottage, as if to give some direct contrast, the modern and anything-but-quaint goods entrance to the Nuffield Hospital.
It's not glaringly obvious, but it does have the shape of an entrance to an underpass to me. I'd never really have noticed it walking past until I saw it on the map and decided to look more closely.
Built between 1876 and 1878, the "King's Clifton Bazaar and Winter Garden opened on April 7th, 1879. It was an instant flop - it became known as King's Folly. There were no takers and he went bankrupt. It was already for sale by July 1879", says the Clifton Arcade's own history page. It's a little run-down these days, but it has a lot of interesting little shops and always feels like a friendly place, with the high lantern ceiling making it light and airy.
Trivia: See the steps at the far end under the distinctive window? Here's Del Amitri singing Nothing Ever Happens while sitting there. I really liked that song as a kid, and I think it stands the test of time.
Another bit of Clifton that a lot of people miss: the gardens at the back of the Kings Road shops.
07 May 2021
I saw this tweet the other day and started thinking of my second Covid-19 vaccination as my "Sequel Injection" (to a geek, it's funny. You'll have to take my word for it.) Whatever you call it, this morning I went and got it.
It was in the same place I got my initial injection—my left arm! No, okay, it was at the Clifton College Prep School. I didn't take any photos of the event itself; the NHS production line is so efficient you barely have time to do anything else, even if the privacy of other patients wasn't a factor.
Along the way I mused at all the road resurfacing going on in Clifton, and also discovered a secret (okay, not-well-known and possibly slightly trespassey) way into Canynge Square, and on the way back I knocked off a few streets from my "leftovers list" of north-east Clifton. I've got much of Clifton done now, with the only obvious "to dos" on the east side of Whiteladies Road...
It was quite a long walk, and I'm feeling pretty tired now, though that might be the effects of the jab too, I suppose. Anyway. Tomorrow and Monday I'm walking outside Bristol, I think, and I imagine my feet will need some recovery time on Sunday, so it might be a while before I post another Wander.
Yup, what I thought led to a back garden or something is actually a strange little cut-through to the back of the Redgrave.
I wonder if this is the stage door to the Redgrave? And how it came to be connected to the corner of Canynge Square? Either way, I love finding these little cut-throughs that are normally only known by locals.
—now retire to your little tinder box right where they wan—
I think. Odd sentiment. I wonder if the length of time it takes to get to the "n" of "want" is also the length of time it takes a supermarket security guard to run here from their CCTV station...
It's just off the main drag, but having a little garden that separates it from Oakfield Road makes it seem a little more private.
I've snapped Oakfield Court before, but it was looking so nice in the sunshine that I couldn't resist another pic.
Down the side of the Bristol Water building you can see the side of the mound that marks the covered Oakfield Road reservoir.
12 May 2021
I wanted to take another snap of an interesting Gothic Revival place in Clifton, having found out a bit more about the owner. On the way I walked through the Clifton Vale Close estate, idly wondering again whether it might've been the site of Bristol's Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens (I've not researched further yet.) On the way back I knocked off the last remaining bit of Queens Road I had yet to walk and tried to find the bit of communal land that Sarah Guppy bought so as not to have her view built on...
I foolishly didn't leave time to pop in and pick up a coffee on my way back from my outing.
"House. 1860. By JA Hansom. For himself."
Does the name Joseph Hansom sound familiar? As well as being the architect of this house, and, to pick a couple of things at random, Arundel Cathedral and Brimingham Town Hall, he also found the time to invent the Hansom Cab.
From the listing:
By Edwin Rickards and Henry Poole. Pennant ashlar, limestone balustrades, cast-iron railings and lamps, bronze statues. Raised forecourt with curved steps and a large fountain with bronze aquatic statues and granite urns; flanking plinths with flagstaffs on moulded bases, turned balustrades with lamps, curved railings with urn finials to the front, bronze lions couchant to the rear, piers to outer gateways with lamps on moulded bases. Rickards and Poole were a notable partnership of the Edwardian period, and this is a particularly good example of their work.
It's nice to see it running. It was dormant the last time we saw it, possibly closed down for winter?
19 May 2021
I just nipped up to Clifton Village to get a coffee, though I did manage to walk down a little alleyway I'd not really noticed before. Or perhaps I had noticed it and it looked private, but today I felt like wandering up its twenty or so feet anyway... The reflections in the shop windows on Boyce's Avenue gave me the idea to take a few snaps of them, so that's the majority of my small amount of snapping today.
Not that you can get much of a view of it with a little camera and with it behind a bunch of netting. Looks rather friable. Apparently it was part of a scheme to attract Queen Victoria to visit that never came to fruition.
22 May 2021
I didn't even think I'd manage to get out today, such was the weather forecast. As it turned out, it's been quite a nice day, and I managed to nip up to Clifton Village to pop to the Post Office. As with my last outing, I decided after snapping one shop-front on Regent Street that I might as well snap the whole row, and muse on a few of them, the only service I really offer over and above Google Street View for a lot of my pictures 😀
The gentleman kicking the recycling bag is not in the queue for Foliage; he's one of the proprietors of Clifton Hardware, next door.
Foliage was Wainwright's Coffee for a while before it changed hands; I think the current people are doing a much better job of giving the place a distinctive feel and attracting people in. Before that it was a boutique called Grace and Mabel.
One of those places where if you go in and ask for some fly spray, a socket set and some tachyon conduit for a Type 40 TARDIS they'll just start rummaging in the back room and ask you whether you want the socket set in metric or Imperial.
I should really try this place at some point. The only Sushi place I've tried in Clifton Village is Noa, which was excellent.
And the pedestrian and vehicle entrances to Regent House, the offices above. Looks like someone's managed to smash Knight Frank's window; maybe it's a protest against the house prices in the area.
At the time I was a little annoyed to lose the cashpoint at this former HSBC branch (it used to be at the bottom of the middle window; they were stone-faced up to about the height of where the railings reach now.
Then it turned into a Waterstones, and now I have to be careful not to go in too often as I will inevitably buy something to add to my vast tsundoku pile.
I've not been in since it changed from a Boston Tea Party, but I may have to try it just to sit upstairs and watch the world go by like I used to...
26 May 2021
Just a quick trip up to Clifton Village to enjoy a bit of sunshine and grab a coffee. No new roads, and only two pictures, but I did at least snap a plaque I'd missed related to some recent reading, and enjoy a quirky Clifton Village house.
I love this quirky little quarter-cylinder of house, with what looks like a sliver of wedge-shaped top floor behind it and the little below-pavement cellar space behind. I have no idea if the big black door on the right is also related to it, though on reflection it's probably more likely to lead to the under-stairs basement of 1 Royal York Crescent, up and to the right.
It and number two are clearly converted shops or pubs—number three remains The Portcullis pub, of course, and they all get a listing together. "Early C19. Render with limestone ashlar, party wall stacks and pantile hipped roof..."
I managed to knock off a reasonable chunk of the roads I had left to walk around the University at the north-eastern extremity of my mile on this nice sunny walk. As well as being impressed by the number of big townhouses now occupied by various departments, I took some time on my way there to check out a war memorial, and some time on the way back to do a little extra wandering of Berkeley Square.
With a Lee-Metford rifle. The Lee Enfield was already in production when the Second Boer War started, but clearly this fella was still on the previous issue...
You'll notice he's also wearing puttees. They'd mostly died out as military wear by the end of WWII.
An economist, and one of the first people to take the Tripos at Cambridge. She and Alfred Marshall, her former tutor, founded the teaching of economics at University College, Bristol.
31 May 2021
A nice warm Bank Holiday Monday saw me walk back over to Bedminster to do justice to something we glimpsed on my last wander. Along the way I spotted a couple of new pieces of street art tucked away on the south side of the Cumberland Basin Flyover system, so this turned into a micro-graffiti walk.
I guess they must be doing something to the Plimsoll Bridge—the door to the pivot mechanism base is behind there, I think.
It used to be an Auction Rooms, for both Dreweatts and BCVA, from what I recall. I went to my very first auction there, in fact, back when I had a year of "Artist Dates" in 2013.
I should start doing those again, now we're (hopefully) going to be able to go places more freely again.
06 Jun 2021
The track on the map doesn't tell the whole story of this walk with Lisa around and about Clifton, Berkeley Square, Brandon Hill and the harbourside, because the batteries on my GPS ran out while we were on the roof of Trenchard Street car park, it seems. Oh well. I think I did most of the area I was interested in finishing off around the University; there were only a few new bits around Brandon Hill that won't be on the track, and I can easily do them again.
Still, technology woes aside it was a nice walk, albeit a bit warm for climbing all those hills, and sat on the harbourside watching the world go by for a while, too. It was good to see the Bristol Ferry Boats carrying people around again, especially.
I've sometimes idly wondered what this thing on the side of Richmond Heights is. I'm told by KYP Bristol (who certainly know their local history) that it used to have the name of the building on it, but the letters fell off.
This means that somewhere out there, a student almost certainly has all the letters they need to make a large sign saying "CHERISH MID THONG"...
We're just outside my mile radius here, but Osborne Villas Looked too tempting to just walk past.
Between University Walk and Woodland Road. Quite the view. I don't get up this way often, so I've rarely seen this side of the Wills Tower.
Again, tempted out of my one-mile radius by the prospect of a new viewpoint. There at the top of the hill is the Red Lodge, where I wanted to go and have a look at the "wigwam" in the back garden. (Spoilers: it's not actually a wigwam.)
08 Jun 2021
I had to return a book to the library—Ellic Howe's Magicians of the Golden Dawn, very interesting, thanks for asking—so I decided to pick the Central Library as my drop-off point and walk down a segment of Deanery Road that I've surprisingly overlooked so far. In any normal time I'd have been walking to work that way quite often, or heading through at the weekend on the way to do some shopping in the city centre, or for a coffee at St Nick's, but those excursions have been quite thin on the ground for the last year or so, for obvious reasons.
I've never been inside a single building on Deanery Road itself; the Library is technically on College Green and the rest is mostly student accommodation or Bristol College buildings, by the looks of things. It's a fairly mediocre street, used merely to get to other places. (St George's Road, which merges into it, at least has the distinction of several good shops verging from the practical and long-lived car radio fitters to the excellent little Dreadnought Books, sadly currently closed for refurbishment...)
After dropping off my book I came home via the harbourside, the better to enjoy the nice sunny blue skies of the day.
Or rather, a bit of St George's Road. At the corner there, St George's Road actually continues down the side street to the left. The road straight ahead, on the far side of the junction, is actually Deanery Road, which is the bit I've not walked yet.
"He was known for his efforts to abolish the practices of sati and child marriage." I was aware of the awful practice of sati purely because it came up in a crossword once. Efforts to abolish it certainly seem statue-worthy.
This statue stands outside the Central Library, between it and City Hall. The Bristol connection is that he travelled to the UK as an ambassador "to ensure that Lord William Bentinck's Bengal Sati Regulation, 1829 banning the practice of Sati was not overturned". He died in Stapleton, Bristol in 1833. As well as this statue, he's buried in a fine mausoleum in the beautiful Arnos Vale cemetery.
It's still a popular moustache style among Indian gentlemen, if erstwhile workmates from Mumbai and other places are anything to go by.
The arch on the left is the Great Gatehouse of St Augustine's Abbey, precursor to the Cathedral; you can see the Library entrance just behind the Ram Mohan Roy statue.