Tagged: urban-design
I was just about starting to feel better—the antibiotics seemed to have kicked in for my dental issues, and it had been some days since I'd left the house, and I was at last starting to get itchy feet. So, a wander. But where? Well, there were a few industrial bits near Winterstoke Road in the Ashton/Ashton Vale areas of Bristol that needed walking. I knew they were likely to be quite, well, unattractive, frankly. So why not do them while I wasn't feeling exactly 100% myself? Maybe it would fit my mood. Hopefully you're also in the mood for a bit of post-industrial wasteland, for that's what some of this feels like...
Then, at the last minute, I thought again about the Bristol International Exhibition—I've got a book about it on the way now—and that gave me another goal, which could just about be said to be in the same direction, and I decided to walk significantly further than my normal 1-mile limit and try recreating another historical photo...
Sadly I don't know much about the Ashton area; it's just on the edges of my mile and I rarely have cause to go there. It's brimming with history, I'm sure: the whole South Bristol area rapidly developed from farmland to coal mines to factories to its current interesting mixture of suburbs and industrial work over the last few hundred years. As a more working class area less attention was paid to it by historians, at least historically-speaking, than the Georgian heights of Clifton, and much of it has been knocked down and reinvented rather than listed and preserved. I see here and there some of this lack is being addressed, but I'm afraid I'll be very light on the history myself on this wander, as most of my usual sources aren't throwing up their normal reams of information as when I point them at Clifton, Hotwells or the old city.
"Hello? Yes, I'd like to order a cubic mile of bland industrial building, please. No, anything'll do."
If one tried to conjure an image from just the phrase "HMS Flying Fox", this probably isn't what would spring to mind, is it? It's not a ship, it's not flying, and it's not a fox, for starters.
Royal Navy Reserves HQ for Wales & South West of England, I think it says on the sign at the far end.
Note the Egyptian kings on pillars at the top of the pilasters bracing the doorway. No earthly clue what they're doing there. As usual, Bristol's historical sources seem to peter out south of the river.
Wikipedia says on Egyptian Revival Architecture:
By the end of the 19th century, the style had very nearly disappeared, but in 1922 with Howard Carter's discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb the style underwent a dramatic revival it was used particularly for cinema architecture and sometimes for factory buildings.
...and given the surroundings it wouldn't entirely surprise me to find that this was originally a factory, at least, though the 1940 date in between the Egyptians suggests they were a little late with the styling.
A Random New Year's Day Wander
01 Jan 2022
I picked a fairly arbitrary reason for a wander today. Really, I just wanted to do a New Year's Day wander just to get out of the house and to set a precedent for the year to come.
My ostensible reason was to investigate what looked like a road on my map that quartered the lawn in front of the Ashton Court mansion. As it turned out, this is just a muddy footpath/desire line similar to a half-dozen other tracks nearby, and must be some kind of bug or misclassification with the mapping system I'm using, but that's not important. What's important is that I went for a little walk on the first day of the year. As a bonus, I did happen to wander down a couple of sections of new footpath, so technically I broke some new ground too, which is nice.
I don't think I noticed this when passing the Ashton pub the last couple of times, but this time a family emerged from it as I was walking in the other direction. It doesn't lead anywhere spectacular, but it was a footpath I'd managed to miss, and the start of it is pleasingly intriguing, at least.
The somewhat unholy trinity of the A3029, the metroBus route and the Portishead branch line. I'm not sure what anyone could do to make this view uglier. Suggestions on a postcard to the council, perhaps?
Near and Far
05 Jan 2022
I took advantage of a rare recent day where it wasn't tipping down with rain to get away from my desk on a lunchtime workday and head up to Clifton Village. I'd hoped to snap a reproduction of historical photo which I'd worked out had been taken from the Suspension Bridge, but the gods were not smiling on me. Still, taking only a nice long lens with me worked out very well as the lovely haze of the day made more distant views quite dramatic...
The Nova Scotia pub bottom right, then behind it the chimney of the previously coal-fired pump house at Underfall Yard. In the background behind that and to the right is the Tobacco Factory, with what looks like a little red shed on its roof that I presume is actually a stairwell exit to the roof. On the left-hand side at about the same distance away is the large council block of Little Cross House. It always seems quite calm and tidy when I pass it, which is very regularly, but the Bristol Post painted a different picture in 2019 in their story headlined "Residents of 'forgotten' tower block demand council action over 'nightmare' living conditions":
People living in Little Cross House, a 13-storey council tower block in Southville, said their lives are plagued by poor living conditions, damp and mould, and neighbours from hell, drug dealers, discarded needles, vandalism and anti-social behaviour.
In the far distance, across the Southville rooftops, are the green hills of the Knowle West Health Park, I think.
Quick Clifton Jaunt Finishing with Southville
09 Jan 2022
It's been pretty dismal recently, weather-wise, so when Sarah called up to say that she and Vik had just left the swimming pool at the student union building up in Clifton, and would I like to join them for a trip to the Last Bookshop, also known as The £3 Bookshop, for reasons you can probably deduce, I leapt at the chance.
Not many photos on this walk, but I did manage to get down a little road I'd never been to before, basically just the access road to a car park at a block of flats, but it was on the map looking all tempting, so I figured I'd knock it off the list as we were passing.
By complete coincidence, I took a photo of this block last week from a great distance (well, a mile, anyway) and then noticed that I hadn't actually walked along its access road and back. So here it is, rather closer up.
After this Sarah and Vik and I nipped to the Tobacco Factory Market where I managed to resist buying a copy of the Cowboy Junkies' The Trinity Session in great condition on the original vinyl. After resisting buying any books in the £3 bookstore earlier this pretty much depleted my reserves of energy for the day, so I headed back home without snapping any more pictures :)
Lunchtime Reproduction (of an old photo...)
17 Jan 2022
This was basically the quick lunchtime jaunt I tried to do at the beginning of January, only this time I actually managed to get to roughly the viewpoint I'd been hoping for to recreate a historical photo of the Bristol International Exhibition.
I did this walk about a month ago, but I've been a bit poorly and not really up to doing much in my spare time, and it's taken me this long to even face processing even these few photos. Hopefully normal service will be resumed at some point and I can carry on trying to walk any roads and paths that I need to do to make this project feel complete...
Unlike my last attempt I successfully managed to get somewhere near the vantage point of the historic photo this time...
I should probably have tried to get it at high tide to make it a bit more comparable, but you can't have everything.
You can see the White City Allotments—those glints of light toward the middle are mostly reflections from greenhouses—where the "White City" of the Exhibition used to stand. There's still a glimpse or two of the railway line to Portishead to be seen, too, along with a vestige of the Rownham Ferry slipway.
Mostly though it's the modern things that stand out—the long line of flats along Paxton Drive, the curve of Brunel Way across the river, and the roof of Ashton Gate Stadium...
Lunchtime Cliftonwood Wander
18 Jan 2022
Another workday, another quick lunchtime trip to get me out of the house. This time my flimsy pretext is a tiny bit of Clifton Vale Close that I'd apparently not walked, and the fact that although I'd walked down Church Lane at least once before I still hadn't taken a single photo of it. Really I just fancied a mosey through Cliftonwood in the sunshine, with the promise of a coffee from Clifton Village at the top of the hill.
Or a bit of it, anyway. Getting back into the spirit of this project a bit by knocking off the odd end of a road that I'd noticed wasn't filled in on the map yet.
As modern flats go, these seem pleasant enough, and some of them will have amazing views. The don't seem terribly inspiring inside, from what I've seen of Rightmove pictures, but they certainly could be worse.
We've popped down here before, on the site of the Clifton National School that didn't survive bombing in the war.
Today, the modern flats look to me as I imagine their original models would have done back when they were still just an idea on an architect's table (or more likely computer monitor, I suppose.)
The spire of St Mary Redcliffe, just left of centre on the horizon, is about the same location as the office I work in, at least a few days a week. I took the job half on the basis of the location meaning a lovely commute down one side or other of the harbour. And then a week after I started the first Covid-19 lockdown kicked in and I didn't get to do the commute again for many months.
This is the road I didn't have many (or any) snaps of that inspired my route today, not that I need much of an excuse to traipse around Cliftonwood on a sunny lunchtime.
You have to zoom way in to see it, and know what you're looking for, but having just done that I can tell you that one of my other favourite lunchtime walk destinations is sitting down there in the little access road between the marina car park and the clock tower of the former Charles Hill offices: Imagine That, who sell coffee from their cute little converted horsebox.
I imagine, given the fifteen minute gap between the last photo and this one, that I clambered up as far as the delightful Foliage Cafe and shot this on the way back home with my coffee. It's been a month between doing this walk and typing up the notes, though, so I couldn't tell you for sure.
Anyway, here's the gentle curve of Royal York Crescent, one of my preferred routes home as the view's rather lovely and the raised pavement takes you away from any traffic.
Bedminster Trip for New Walking Shoes
26 Feb 2022
I needed to buy new walking shoes—my old ones were squeaking and it was driving me up the wall—so I ordered some for collection from Taunton Leisure on East Street in Bedminster, and decided to make picking them up an official wander.
I didn't cover any new ground within my mile, but I did take advantage of the trip to take in a few interesting things just outside my normal radius, mostly New Gaol-related. Along the way there are a couple of sanitation-related diversions, including a visit to a rare manhole cover. You can hardly wait, I can tell!
The bridge seemed to be taking a while to lock back into place, and I don't recall seeing one of the life-jacketed operators wandering up and down it before. I did wonder if something had gone wrong, but it closed eventually.
At the end of the tracks is the engine shed built into the end of the M Shed museum.
Wapping Wharf was fairly busy. I didn't stop for a coffee from Mokoko or Little Victories, though it's always tempting.
Here's a first glimpse of something I'm interested in seeing even though it's just outside my mile radius.
Apparently it's the offices of a shopfitters. According to the listing, which is so laden with architectural words I found it quite heavy to copy from Historic England's website:
Zion House and attached railings and gateways. Congregational chapel, now offices. 1830. For John Hare. Pennant stone rubble and limestone ashlar, slate roof. Open plan. Classical style. 2 storeys and basement; 5-window range. Portico of tetrastyle-in-antis cast-iron Tuscan columns, with a deep entablature returning at the ends; the pediment contains a louvred oculus supported by a wide blank panel with relief palmettes
Apparently the antae are the bits supporting the sides of the entranceway, and stylos is a column, so the supporting ends with the four columns in between are a tetrastyle-in-antis. I will now forget that before it appears in a Times cryptic.
I'm fairly sure I saw Louvred Oculus playing a gig at the Louisiana once.
This place has both astoundingly good reviews and a gallery, apparently. According to the website, it's run by "Annie, a well-known celebrity on the Street Art scene".
I may have to pop in at some point, though I'm rarely at a loose end in this bit of town.
I couldn't find out why it's called the Rope Walk, but it does seem to be the starting point for the Blood and Butchery in Bedminster walking tour, so that might be a way of finding a local historian who knows...
It looks like the kind of place you'd get great fish & chips. Having had a look at the reviews, most of the bad ones seem to be from people having delivery problems through Deliveroo and Just Eat, so probably best sampled up close and in person, I think.
In Which We Begin and End with Love
05 Mar 2022
I had a lot to get done around the house, so as soon as I heard there might be a shiny new piece of street art near me, under the Cumberland Basin flyovers, I immediately decided that was all the excuse I needed to set off on a round-the-harbour lunchtime walk to get some fresh air and see if I could spot it. So, here's a circular wander that takes in graffiti, boats, wildlife and graffiti again...
Leigh Woods Purple Path
12 Mar 2022
There's a few tracks in Leigh Woods that lie within my mile and show up on my map but that I've not walked yet, so I decided to take one of my traditional big long walks through the woods on this nice crisp sunny morning.
For years—decades, even—I've been doing a similar route from my place, along the towpath to the far woods entrance, up the hill for a varied walk on one of the marked tracks and then across the Suspension Bridge to Clifton Village for a coffee-based reward. It's my default "long walk", really, and I almost always enjoy it. Today, at last, spring actually seemed to be springing, which made for some extra positivity...
The Campbell Brothers' White Funnel Fleet operated from the Hotwells landing stage up until relatively recently. Last week I bought an old timetable on eBay and popped it up on my blog for anyone who might be interested.
In 1965, the year of the timetable, there were regular sailings from here along the coast or over to Wales. You could go to Ilfracombe and Lundy Island, or head across to Barry, Penarth or Cardiff. All from within five minutes' walk of my front door.
Waterstones Clifton Village there presumably doing their best to sell books that help give context to the current Russian aggression.
Just around the corner from where I live, and we've been here before, but I didn't own a wide-angle lens back then.
So, that was my walk through Leigh Woods. I think I knocked off a bit of path that was on my list, but at this point I've not actually looked at the GPS track yet. I suppose we'll see.
A Coffee and a Curve
27 Mar 2022
I wanted to have a wander along to the Tobacco Factory Market for some shopping, and checking the map for any leftover nearby streets I noticed a tiny curve of road on the way into the modern flats at Paxton Drive that it didn't look like I'd walked down before. I wouldn't take me too far out of my way, so I decided to head there first and then across to North Street to get my groceries and a coffee...
Here we are at the tiny loop of road that looked like it hadn't been walked. It has very little to recommend itself in any other capacity.
Paxton Drive always reminds me of Blake's 7, but in fact in the episode Stardrive it's actually Doctor Plaxton's drive that's the MacGuffin.
I headed here for a take-away flat white for the walk home. I may have to come here for brunch one day soon; I saw a pair of amazing looking brunch plates being delivered as I was waiting for my coffee. Looking at the brunch menu it could have been the Bubble and Bacon, and the Turkish Tagine.
At some point, the Council say that the Chocolate path will finally be repaired and I can at last add one of my favourite paths in Bristol to my One Mile Matt project.
Here's hoping.